Breaking down exfoliation
Every skincare regimen should have an exfoliation step. Exfoliation will boost the home care regimen and keep your clients skin glowing. There are several types of skin exfoliation, each with its own benefits.
Here's a breakdown on two:
- Mechanical
- Chemical
Mechanical Exfoliation - Mechanical exfoliation involves physically scrubbing the skin to remove dead skin cells and improve texture. Here are some common types of mechanical exfoliation:
Types of Mechanical Exfoliation:
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Scrubs: Contain small particles like sugar, salt, or ground nutshells that manually buff away dead skin cells when massaged into the skin.
- Examples: Jojoba beads, Sugar scrubs, salt scrubs, and apricot scrubs.
- Brushes: Manual or electric brushes that help exfoliate the skin.
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Microdermabrasion: A professional treatment using fine crystals or a diamond-tipped wand to remove dead skin layers.
- Benefits: Improves skin texture, reduces fine lines, and minimizes pores.
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Dermaplaning: Involves using a sterile surgical scalpel to gently scrape off the top layer of dead skin cells and fine hair (peach fuzz).
- Benefits: Leaves the skin smooth, enhances product absorption, and improves makeup application.
Chemical Exfoliation - Chemical exfoliation works by using acids or enzymes to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, allowing them to be easily shed. Chemical exfoliation promotes skin renewal.
How Chemical Exfoliation Works:
- Application: A chemical exfoliant, which can come in the form of a liquid, gel, or cream, is applied to the skin.
- Penetration: The active ingredients penetrate the surface of the skin. Different acids and enzymes penetrate to varying depths, depending on their molecular size and the formulation of the product.
- Dissolving Bonds: The chemicals break down the proteins and lipids that hold dead skin cells together. This process is much gentler than physical exfoliation, which involves scrubbing the skin.
- Shedding Dead Skin Cells: Once the bonds are broken, the dead skin cells can be easily shed, revealing fresher, smoother, and brighter skin underneath.
Here are some common types of chemical exfoliants:
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Water-soluble acids like glycolic and lactic acid that exfoliate the skin's surface.
Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): Oil-soluble acids like salicylic acid that penetrate pores and help with acne.
Enzyme Exfoliants: Derived from fruits like papaya and pineapple, these break down dead skin cells without the need for scrubbing.
Each type of exfoliation has its benefits and is suitable for different skin types. You, as the esthetician, can decide which type of exfoliation is appropriate for your client's skintype.